We crossed the border from Boa Vista and started to follow the orange dirt road. The skinny savannah of Brazil began to put on weight as fleshy forest padded the far horizon. The narrow road soon needle pointed through walls of wood - the palmless, pineless lush green leafery patrolled by black clad vigilant vultures. Kilometres of whorled and rutted track eventually stretched the view to distance of marsh. Canals and roadside pools erupted water birds - egrets, herons, occasional jabiru storks. King vultures posed for our tourist cameras. Then forest ruled again. The single lane track became furrowed, freshly ploughed by lorries, until on a rare smooth straight our truck slowed down as a distant object across our way lazily stirred itself, stretched and casually strolled off into the jungle - jaguar.
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